This is an edited version of a story that was first published in the Sydney Morning Herald on December 31, 1913.
An Australian's first impression of the famous Waikiki beach at Honolulu is decidedly disappointing. Waikiki, means "spouting water," and the world-famous bathing place is about 1½ mile long; and, many hotels and boarding houses are situated there, and some of the dining rooms reach over to the beach.
The sandy portion does not exceed 25 yards in width at any point; and the rise and fall of the tide is very slight. However, it is the formation of the beach that has made the locality so famous. Coral abounds on the bottom, and a reef stretches right across the bay about haft a mile from shore. Inside the water is quite shallow, and swimmers are frequently seen two hundred yards from shore and when they stand up they are only waist deep in the water. It is this shallowness and very gradual slope that gives the waves their long, easy, regular roll and makes surf-board riding so delightful.
The board is about seven feet long, and eighteen inches wide, with a convex top.
About 300 yards out a wave is selected, and then, lying flat on the board with the arms used in paddle fashion, as much impetus as possible Is gained before the wave reaches the surfer. The position is maintained until one is certain that the wave is carrying its burden, when the enjoyment is increased by first assuming a kneeling position, and then standing erect in the centre of the board. This is kept up for more than 200 yards; and sometimes those who can balance well, stand on their heads. The experience is very pleasant; and, once the art is mastered, everything is forgotten in the keen enjoyment of the exercise.
The great sprint swimmer
It was Waikiki that produced the greatest sprint swimmer that the world has yet known - Duke Paoa Kahanamoku. He was named "Duke" after his father, who was given the name by a loving parent in honour of the visit of the Duke of Edinburgh, who arrived at Honolulu on the day that the first Duke Kahanamoku was born. Paoa was the name of the grandfather of the champion, and "Kahanamoku," in the native language means "shipbuilder," from which occupation the family no doubt derived its name.
Twenty-three years of age, six feet one inch tall, and weighing in street attire nearly 14 stone, Duke, as he is known to everyone in the Islands, is the perfect type of an athlete. He has large shoulders, upper arm, and chest, and is very clean limbed, and moves with ease and freedom. Duke is a member of the Hui Nalu, which means "surf club," and the broad Pacific is his playground.
Duke is employed as a draughtsman in the Public Works Department of the Islands, and is very successful In his work. He has a very retiring disposition, and one soon makes friends with him.
He will willingly exhibit his stroke and kick in the water to anyone who is interested. Up and down the beach he will swim, with his long-reaching crawl stroke: flat on the water with an easy roll to one side, and an easier one to the other. When asked how he "kicked," Duke was quite at a loss to explain, and he finally gave it up, and said he did not know, but just kept going naturally.
A close watch shows his right leg moving a little faster than his left, in the ratio of about three of the former to two of the latter. In the longer distance work, he moves slower in all respects, and there Is less disturbance in the water.
Shark fishing
Kahanamoku is very eager to visit Australia, and never seemed to tire of asking questions about the bathing enclosures and beaches. He was surprised to hear of the enclosed baths, as, like all the natives, he has no fear of sharks. The natives swim about everywhere without a second thought about sharks, although they are known to abound there. Harpooning these monsters is one of the pastimes in which Duke and his friends fill in their weekends.
It may be confidently anticipated that Duke will swim even faster in Sydney than he has done hitherto. When the shallow, dragging nature of the Waikiki beach, and the small Indoor pools of San Francisco and Los Angeles are compared with the splendid 100 metres straightaway course at the Sydney Domain baths everything suggests faster times. He should easily acclimatise and the temperature of the water and surroundings generally, should be in the champion's favour when he visits us In December next. The Hawaiians are also eager to see their territory represented by a team of four, to engage our best men in a relay race.
