Almost half the top ten Hellenic restaurants listed in a recent goodfood.com.au story are local.
Those listed in the Good Food "Ten of the best affordable Greek restaurants in Sydney" include:
HAM Cafe, Cronulla
This sunny corner cafe, named after Harry and Mario (HAM) Kapoulas, attracts everyone from fun-employed mums to high-vis-vest boys and the local bearded, bewhiskered brigade. Talk to Mum Kitty - you will find the matriarch herself in the open kitchen - about her fab Greek-inspired fare. Kitty's old-school porridge ($9.90) has a Greek accent when served with pistachios and seasonal fruit, and the spanakopita ($12.90), baklava ($5.50) and melomakarona (walnut syrup biscuits, $3.50) are enough to deflect your woes about the motherland's debt crisis.
3/17 Gerrale Street, Cronulla, (02) 8521 7219, hamharryandmario.com
Parea Greek Tavern, Kogarah
In Greek culture, a "parea" is a group of friends who gather to share ideas. When you're done philosophising, indulge in gyros served open on a plate piled with lamb off the spit, tomato, red onion, chips and tzatziki ($15.90) or a mattress of moussaka ($17.90). Do as the locals do in this brightly lit eatery and BYO retsina to go with the set menu ($40 pp for four people and more) of pita bread, dips, Greek salad, dolmades, octopus, calamari and souvlaki.
46-48 Rocky Point Road, Kogarah, (02) 9588 7887, parea.com.au
EAT GRK, Beverly Hills
If you can't afford your annual holiday to Ithaka, why not satisfy your accountant and settle for the sunny courtyard outside this Beverly Hills beauty instead. On Sundays, it's all about the souvla - lamb or pork marinated for 30 hours with 15 fresh herbs and spices before being slow-cooked over charcoal and carved off the spit. Hunks of grilled haloumi ($3) are also heavenly, while a pita wrap meal is given whip-cracks of flavour from red onion, tomato, capsicum, olive spread, cucumber and creamy feta sauce ($13.50). Bring out your bazoukis and dance like Zorba until you are transported to the azure seas of the Mediterranean.
437-441 King Georges Road, Beverly Hills, (02) 8041 7047, eatgrk.com.au
Kefi Greek Tavern, Kingsgrove
While Kingsgrove Road is as far from the sun-dappled sea and blindingly white houses of Greece's Ionian islands as can be, the food at Kefi is upbeat Greek street food at its finest. Kefi means "joy", "fun" or "feeling good", and your life will be full of kefi when you grab a gyros of pork neck spiked with mustard, sage and rosemary ($24.50) and served with celeriac skordalia. Grab a gyros (pronounced year-ohs) to go from the Kefi Souvlaki and Pizza Bar next door. Austerity has never been so palatable.
1/231 Kingsgrove Road, Kingsgrove, (02) 9554 4442, kefigreektavern.com.au